Another great day ... I awoke to a puppy and monkey wrestling..., grabbed some grinds and paddled out at Ulus ... Completely mental and solid 15 footers..., then ventured to another amazing spot where my jaw dropped when we pulled up... 200 yard or more steep, hollow, and powerful lefts... You catch one and you are exhausted and so far down the beach then hope you make it out before a set .. I got lucky ( see pic below ) a duck dive that was very close to being a oh sh*t moment either way THIS PLACE IS BONKERS on the how good the waves are.. Now we sleep. .. Sean out...!
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